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| Camera-less rig -- motorized dolly and motorized pan and tilt head. Tony Travostino in the background. |
Could not get the slider system to work at all, we just got slipping on some of the gears, so we went back to skateboard wheels on a flat board.
Libby ran this system mostly. On a couple shots it took two operators. Man I wish we had like Bluetooth focus pulling as an option.
What else, what else? So many things. I write these blog posts as I'm practically passed out from a day of shooting so I have no idea what I'm saying 'till I read them (and don't edit them) in the morning.
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13 comments:
That's funny, I have two of those exact remote pan heads...They're pretty decent, though I wish you could get it to ease to a stop on the pan/tilt rather than just the abrupt stop.
I know, right? How do we get it to do that?
I think the only way to do it is to take the remote, clamp it to your workstation, get out the wire cutters and the strippers, then go rent a VariZoom VZ-MC100 pan head.
Waaah. That's not what I wanted to hear!
I'm wondering if you can't smooth out the jolting stop by adding a slight digital pan with the pan that doesn't stop when the mechanical pan does, and then ease that pan to a stop. Only other way I can think is to actually pan a little manually WHILE you're panning with the head, then when it stops you ease your pan to a stop. But that sorta defeats the purpose of even using the remote pan, doesn't it?
I feel there's gotta be a way to ramp the voltage up and down rather than just on and off. Gotta be...
Plug it into a variac. That way, you'll have more control than even the Gods dare dream of. No consultation fee necessary.
Will a variac work with DC?
Yep, you just have to buy one that outputs DC. I think I have one. I definitely have an AC one that I use to regulate my hot wire cutter temp.
And blowing up stuff.
And probably torture.
I think the "ac" in "Variac" is for... er... AC.
That said, for such a low-voltage DC application a simple potentiometer is all that's needed, no? If we learn the pin-out on the head, we could wire two pots or, uh, yeah. Two pots and two switches. Like DPDT or... wait maybe it should be triple-throw so that the center position is "off". That's probably the best way. So two DPTT switches and two potentiometers and... How am I suddenly the electrics guy?
Can we just get the hazer fixed?
Yeah but... the motor we're working with (and its power supply) are DC already. I think just regular old variable resistors are all that's needed.
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