Shane Hurlibut says the Ursa wants to shoot at an ISO of 400. He says that whackity-doo* things happen to the image at both 200 and 800 ISO.
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| The fact he has a football strapped to his kit is all kinds of awesome. |
The trick is to use infrared resistant ND filters for out there in the sunshine. Whether we feel the infrared pollution on the image is a good or bad thing may be up for debate, but we're GOING to need some ND. This morning I measured an f45 out in the daylight at 400 ISO at 24fps and a 180 shutter (I still have my Sekonic light meter from Pandora Machine). That's right, an f 45.
Obviously that will have to be knocked down a couple stops. The IR ND filters are delightfully expensive. Delightful!
This is information I frequently need:
Neutral Density Factors
- • 2x = ND.3 (exposure adjustment = 1 stop, reduces ISO 1/2)
- • 4x = ND.6 (exposure adjustment = 2 stops, reduces ISO 1/4)
- • 8x = ND.9 (exposure adjustment = 3 stops, reduces ISO 1/8)
*My words, not his.
Update: a complete explanation of f-stops!
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2 comments:
Might have to look into renting a sweet zeiss lens for a week rather than paying for a decent-yet-not-zeiss lens for my upcoming short...
And why don't you just up the shutter speed drastically to reduce the amount of light coming in?
I don't want to rely on faster shutters just because I don't want the movie to look too video-y. Or to lose motion blur (even though that seemed to work for Pitch Black).
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